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Waigeo (& Timika), West Papua, Indonesia

Paradise found in Raja Ampat

March 4-11, 2017
Dominic Chaplin
, Cairns, Queensland, Australia

 

 

 

Introduction

This report outlines a week long birding trip to Waigeo Island, West Papua, with a brief stop at Timika en route.

References

Beehler, Bruce & Pratt, Thane - Birds of New Guinea 2nd Edition, 2015.

Beehler, Bruce & Pratt, Thane - Birds of New Guinea - Distribution, Taxonomy, and Systematics, 2016

Laman, Tim & Scholes, Edwin - Birds of Paradise, 2014 National Geographic Birds of Paradise Project - Stunning photos of all species

Eaton et al. - Birds of The Indonesian Archipelago, 2016

Gregory, Phil - Birds of New Guinea and Associated Islands - A checklist (updated regularly)

Frith, Cliff & Dawn - Birds of Paradise: Nature, Art and History, 2010

del Hoyo, Josep & Collar, Nigel - HBW & BirdLife - Illustrated Checklist of Birds of the World Vol 1 & 2, 2014

Kukila - The journal of Indonesian Ornithology

 

Internet - Many useful trip reports and info including:

http://www.birdsofparadiseproject.org/

Burung Nasantara

West Papua 2015 Gareth Knass

West Papua, 2011 Henk Hendrik

 

Background

The sparsely populated island of Waigeo, in the Raja Ampat region of West Papua, is still mostly covered by untouched forest. It is actually an incredibly beautiful place with much offer those interested in wildlife of land or sea. Along with Batanta and Gam Island it is home to the local endemic Wilsons Bird of Paradise, Red Bird of Paradise and Raja Ampat Pitohui. Luckily all of these are easy to see here at very modest cost. A good number of other West Papuan bird species also occur here, not all of which are quite so easy.

Travel to this area has been greatly facilitated by the Stay Raja Ampat website. This provides information on all the local homestays and how to get there.

On the way I had a 6 hour stopover at Timika. To pass the time I took a taxi out to the Freeport golf course, a bizarre course situated amongst giant rainforest trees, with birdlife very active in the morning.

20 Species were identified in 3 hours at the Timika Golf Course and 75 in 7 days on Waigeo

Accomodation

I stayed at the idyllic Yenkangkanes Homestay (ID350,000/Aus$35 night including good meals)

http://www.stayrajaampat.com/accommodation/yenkangkanes-homestay/

To be honest it was so nice just sitting in the cabins over the water watching the locals pass by in the sunshine, it was very difficult to get motivated to go out and look for any birds.

Accommodation was booked via the Stay Raja Ampat website and it is worth texting the homestay to confirm closer to the time. They can also arrange pickup from the ferry in Waisai by ojek (moped) or car for the 25 minute journey.

Waisai is reached by twice daily ferry from Sorong (ID130,000/AU$13). Check on the times at the terminal in Sorong as the timetable on the website may not be current. You can sit at the back of the ferry outside with the smokers and squint at the distant seabirds.

ID1,000,000/Aus$100 is payable on arrival at the ferry terminal on Waisai as a tourist fee.

1km From Yengkangkanes, via a boardwalk, is the lovely village of Saporkrem. This is worth a visit. It is the closest ideal you can imagine of happy south sea islanders living in a tropical paradise. Children seem to outnumber adults by ten to one.

Guides

Local guide Benny is pretty good http://www.stayrajaampat.com/ultimate-raja-ampat-guide/guides/benny-mambrasar/ Phone: +6285244871706 (SMS text message best). But he was away in the Arfaks for most of the time so I went with his offsider Bram who was fine. (ID400,000/Aus$40 or less for the morning). All land in the area is privately owned. You can walk along the road but to go into the forest to the BOP areas you should always go with a guide. Each day I went up the hill with Bram but walked down slowly by myself. One day we hired a car and travelled further up the hill to look for Western Crowned Pigeons (ID1,000,000/Aus$100).

 

Timika

The vast Southern watershed of West Papua is rarely visited by birders. I was alerted to the possibility of the Freeport Klub Rimba Golf Course as a good location by Ebird reports from Jonathan Pap, who notably recorded Wallace's Fruit Dove there. The golf course is reached via an approx 30 minute taxi ride from the airport. I couldn't find anyone there to ask permission so just wandered around smiling at everyone and staying well away from the potential trajectory of any golf balls.

Whilst you might question the environmental record of Freeport, their complex to the North of Timika seems to comprise very good primary rainforest. I am uncertain about access rights but no one questioned me either at the security gate or on the Golf Course.

The rainforest around the town of Timika is severely degraded but once inside the Freeport Mine complex the original vegetation is still intact. The golf course is rather surreal with fairways closely bordered by giant rainforest trees. Early in the morning there was much bird activity with mostly unidentified pigeons, doves and parrots flying across the fairways. Greater Birds of Paradise were heard and I was surprised to see a small group of Yellow-eyed Starlings. Other birds of interest included Large Fig-parrots, Ornate Fruit-doves, Great Cuckoo doves, Black-capped Lories and Oriental Cuckoos. Red-bellied Pittas were calling from forest next to one of the greens.

A few more mornings at this location would be time well spent. Activity died down around 10.00 as the heat kicked in.

Waigeo Locations

Inland Track

The main birding site near Yenkangkanes is the inland track which is accessed by walking in the dark 1km East along the coast road, passing a large banana garden, then walking another 1km North and inland uphill to the Red BOP display tree at 234m asl. It eventually snakes back down to a settlement on the coast which luckily is much more easily accessed by boat.

Red Birds of Paradise dance in the same tree every morning and are thus rather easy to find. I occasionally saw them in general walks even down on the coast. The tree is rather high and I understand that photo opportunities may be better at a location on nearby Gam island where they are lower in the trees. One or two males and a couple of females were present at each visit.

Wilson's Birds of Paradise also visit the same cleared court every morning. This is near the Red BOP tree. The local guides know of a number of courts and have set up hides. I visited two different hides which both had males present every morning and the occasional female. It was a real privilege to be able to watch these magnificent animals at close range. The bright colours really stood out agains the clear dirt of the forest floor. After a while the Wilson's would leave the court and move into the forest. But the guide could entice them back by placing 4-5 leaves on their court. The furious birds would soon return and remove the offending items.

Western Crowned Pigeons can also be seen on the same road but they are rather less reliable. One morning we hired a car and visited a Wilson's BOP court further along the road. After quite some time walking in the forest and also spending some time failing to see two Red-bellied Pittas calling at very close range, we walked slowly back along the road and were rewarded with one huge pigeon strutting along the road in front of us.

Raja Ampat Pitohuis are fairly common along this road. I was originally confused as the coloration of these birds closely matches that of the Island Monarch in Bheeler and is much brighter than the actual Raja Ampat Pitohui drawing.

There is only one previous record of Sooty Owl from Waigeo. This was a sound record by Charles Davies at 450m elevation in 2008. One morning just before dawn I clearly heard the loud harsh hissing call of a tyto owl at close range. This was at the lookout between the Red BOP tree and the Wilson's court. This call was repeated several times. It exactly matched the call of the Lesser Sooty Owl on my Pizzey & Knight, Birds of Australia phone app. It moved slightly closer on playing the app call but remained unseen. It did not make the falling bomb call. Guide Benny was familiar with the Sooty Owl in the Arfak Mountains but had never seen it on Waigeo. Future visitors to the area should look out for Sooty Owls.

Brown-headed Crows have a very patchy distribution. I was lucky enough to find a few during the previous year's trip to Nimbokrang. They were also present along the inland road with four seen well from the lookout and a couple further along the road the following day.

Pulau Urai

I visited this island which sometimes holds Spice Imperial Pigeons. I was also hopeful for Island Whistler or Island Monarch. But we were a bit late leaving and didn't see any pigeons or whistlers. On the boat trip I saw a Beach Kingfisher, Gurney's Eagle, 3 White-bellied Sea-eagles and an Oriental Cuckoo. On the island were Eclectus Parrots, Red-cheeked Parrots, Shining Flycatchers, a Torresian Crow and I heard a Black Butcherbird.

Coast Road and Banana Gardens

In the late afternoon many birds could be seen by walking from the Yenkagkanes homestay 1km back along the coast road to the banana planation. I also saw a Waigeo Cuscus along this road. Eclectus Parrots seem to favour this area and there were at least 50 present around the banana gardens. Other birds here included a Palm Cockatoo, Moustached Treeswifts, Pinon Imperial Pigeons, Glossy Manucodes, Red BOPs, Blyth's hornbill, Collared Sparrowhawk and a Grey-streaked Flycatcher.

Yenkagkanes Homestay

Birds can also be seen with minimal effort from the homestay including Common Sandpiper, Pacific Swallow, Lesser Frigatebird, Long-tailed Buzzard, Grey-headed Goshawk, White-bellied Sea-eagle, Red-cheeked Parrots and Helmeted Friarbirds. Stephan's Doves were on the road in the early morning and Claret-breasted Fruit-Doves called invisibly from the trees above.

Kri

I didn't visit the nearby island of Kri, visible from the homestay. But it would be worth a few nights here to look for Spice Imperial Pigeon, Island Whistler and Island Monarch. There is also some spectacular diving with Manta Rays.

Birds Recorded

Dusky Scrubfowl - Regularly heard along the inland track at Waigeo and a few occasionally shot across the road. There were several large mounds about 4km along. Very shy.
Brown Booby - A couple seen in the distance on the ferry crossing.
Lesser Frigatebird - Seen on the ferry crossing, from the homestay and a large flock of about 100 passed over the homestay one evening.
Pomeraine Jaegar - One seen in the distance on the ferry crossing.
Herring Gull complex sp. Two very large unidentifiable gulls were circling in the distance in Sorong harbour.
Crested Tern - A few on the ferry crossing and a couple daily from the homestay.
Striated Heron - One in the harbour at Waisai.
Eastern Reef Egret - One daily from the homestay.
Brahminy Kite - Seen daily from the homestay and also on Pulua Urai and one at Timika.
White-bellied Sea-eagle - One at the homestay and three on Pulau Urai.
Osprey - One seen daily at homestay or along coast road.
Gurney's Eagle - One seen over the mainland during the boat trip to Pulau Urai.
Grey-headed Goshawk - One beside the beach at the homestay.
Collared Sparrowhawk - One at the banana gardens after a downpour. Uncommon.
Long-tailed Buzzard - One at the homestay.
Red-necked Crake - One heard on the inland track ('Tok' call).
Common Sandpiper - One daily on the beach at the homestay.
Red-necked Phalarope - At least 200 in flocks of 20-50 seen from the Sorong-Waisai ferry crossing.
Brown Cuckoo-Dove - One at the homestay.
Great Cuckoo-Dove - Two at Timika.
Stephan's Emerald-Dove - A couple on the inland track on two days and a three on the road next to the homestay one morning.
Western Crowned Pigeon - One on the road on the inland track, about 4km in from the coast.
Wompoo Fruit-Dove - One heard on one day only along the inland track.
Ornate Fruit-Dove - 30 in a large fruiting tree at Timika.
Beautiful Fruit-Dove - Two along the inland track.
Claret-breasted Fruit-Dove - Regularly calling around the homestay but very difficult to see.
Orange-bellied Fruit-Dove - 10 in a large fruiting tree at Timika.
Pied Imperial Pigeon - Singles, plus one group of 5 seen flying in the evenings, from the homestay.
Zoe's Imperial Pigeon - 5 at Timika.
Pinon's Imperial Pigeon - Several seen every evening along the coast road perching in the open in high trees.
Eclectus Parrot - 5 at Timika and up to 50 seen every day all over Waigeo, especially around the banana garden.
Palm Cockatoo - One along the inland road and one at the banana garden.
Sulphur-crested Cockatoo - 4 at Timika and a few along the inland road. One suddenly screeching nearby so loudly Bram nearly jumped out of his skin.
Red-flanked Lorikeet - Occasional fast flying small flocks at Timika and Waigeo were probably this species.
Black-capped Lory - At least two at Timika.
Rainbow Lorikeet - At least 20 at Timika and the occasional pair on Waigeo.
Red-cheeked Parrot - A couple seen at the homestay, some along the coast road and inland road most days and one out on Pulau Urai.
Large Fig-Parrot - 4 of these stunning parrots seen at Timika, a regular location for them.
Blyth's Hornbill - 4-10 seen daily. Inland track, banana garden and homestay.
Channel-billed Cuckoo - 3 one day near the banana garden.
Oriental Cuckoo - Two at Timika and one seen from the boat on the coast along from the homestay.
Brush Cuckoo - Heard a few mornings along the inland track.
Sooty Owl - A harsh screech, exactly matching that of Lesser Sooty Owl on Pizzey & Knight Birds of Australia app, was repeated several times, at the lookout along the inland road, just before dawn on one morning. Masked Owl does not occur anywhere near so it was either a Sooty Owl or rather less likely undiscovered tyto sp.
Papuan Frogmouth - One heard calling in the early morning at the homestay.
Glossy Swiftlet - 20 at Timika and a few seen occasionally on the inland road.
Moustached Treeswift - 4 along the inland road and two at the banana gardens.
Uniform Swiftlet - A few seen regular on Waigeo.
Pacific Swallow - Two every day on a dead branch next to my hut at the homestay.
Common Paradise Kingfisher - A few heard every day along the inland road and viewed twice.
Oriental Dollarbird - One on the inland track.
Rufous-bellied Kookaburra - One at Timika and one across the road from the homestay. A few heard on the inland track.
Beach Kingfisher - One on Pulau Urai and one reported by birders at a homestay next door.
Yellow-billed Kingfisher - Heard regularly on the inland track and two seen one morning.
Red-bellied Pitta - Heard regularly on the inland track, sometimes very close. Never seen.
Hooded Pitta - One called non stop for an hour on the lower part of the inland track. It crossed the road twice and even seem to land on my hat in response to playback. Never seen.
Long-billed Honeyeater - One only seen once along the inland track at the lookout.
Helmeted Friarbird - 4 at Timika. 2-4 seen daily around the homestay. Others along the inland track.
Tawny-breasted Honeyeater - At least 4 heard at Timika and more heard daily along the inland track. Strangely not one seen.
Spotted Honeyeater - One only seen once on the inland track.
Mimic Meliphaga - Up to 10 seen each day. Along the inland track and around the homestay.
Pale-billed Scrubwren - One party seen once along the inland track.
Green-backed Gerygone - 2-4 Seen daily along the inland track. Difficult to see well.
Black Sunbird - 2 Seen at Timika and 1 along the coast road.
Olive-backed Sunbird - One at the homestay.
Olive-crowned Flowerpecker - 2-4 of these every day along the inland track. Difficult to see well.
Red-capped Flowerpecker - 4 at Timika.
Hooded Butcherbird - 4-6 seen every day. Inland road and coast road. Characteristic dawn chorus call.
Black Butcherbird - One heard on Pulau Urai.
Barred Cuckooshrike - 3 seen once on the inland road.
Raja Ampat Pitohui - 3-6 every day on the inland road. Much more orange in colour than in Bheeler. More closely resembled Island Monarch colour.
Little Shrikethrush - Two seen on the inland track.
Grey Whistler - One seen along the inland track and a few heard.
Shining Flycatcher - One near the homestay and one on Pulau Urai.
Spot-winged Monarch - One at the Red BOP tree.
Frilled Monarch - A couple heard along the inland track. Never seen.
Northern Fantail - Two seen along the inland track and often heard.
Willie Wagtail - a pair at the homestay. Call quite different to birds in Cairns.
Glossy Mantled Manucode - A few seen every day, inland track, coast road and banana garden.
Torresian Crow - One flew past the homestay every day. One on Pula Urai.
Brown-headed Crow - 4 seen at the lookout on the inland track and two more the next day a few km further along.
Wilson's Bird of Paradise - One court 4km along the inland track and another about 2km. Male present every morning apart from one morning of heavy rain. Female present on one morning.
Red Bird of Paradise - 2-4 Present every morning on their display tree and a few seen along the inland track and coast road.
Black-sided Robin - Commonly heard along the inland track but seen only once.
Grey-streaked Flycatcher - One seen along the coast road.
Spangled Drongo - One along inland track and two along coast road.
Singing Starling - One group of 10 at the banana gardens.
Yellow-eyed Starling - One group of 4 at Timika. Feeding on same large fruiting tree as fruit doves. Appeared white-eyed. Uncommon.
Yellow-faced Myna - 6 at Timika and 4-6 seen daily along the inland track and coast road.

Dominic Chaplin
Cairns, Australia June 2017

p: PO Box 208, Bungalow, QLD 4870
e: dominic@pinecreekpictures.com.au